
i was surprised to discover this picture of my calf muscle and foot on my phone. i had just gotten off a train and i remember that i was cold in fear and decided to sit down in order to calm down, catch my breath and regain my composure. i was clasping my treo as a lifeline , a remnant habit from my corporate days as an IT executive, and i must have accidentally hit the camera quick launch button, as if my trembling fingers wanted me to remember that moment.
i was LOST in nakatsu. i was alone, had barely any money on me, didn't have my passport, couldn't speak japanese, had no phone and, most importantly, i didn't have the faintest idea how to get back to kamegawa. it was around 7pm, and i could sense my stomach beginning to churn in hunger. what was really worrying me was if i couldn't get back to kamegawa then i'd have to stay overnight at nakatsu, and i'd ran out of cash. with the cold wind blowing wildly, i was beginning to freeze, as i had on only a rain jacket and was in fact wearing only shorts.
what began as a glorious day of fun with friends came crashing down like bad karma with a vengeance.
miracle#1. that saturday began early for me as i got up at 05:00 to cook. i had joined the
apu cycling club and we were to have our first biking trip -- to tanoura beach. we were informed that we would be passing by a convenience store so we could buy lunch, but my "
no" policy dictated that i bring packed lunch. i was out of ap house 2 by 07:00.
"knock...knock," and i brought my face closer to the glass door of the oita kotsu bus. the driver bolted to attention. "Ohayoo gozaimasu!," he greeted me as he opened the door.
seeing that i was indeed the first passenger, i sat right behind him and began a conversation. it was the driver's last day as an employee of oita kotsu, and he was excited to go full-time on a buy-and-sell business he had set up two years back in preparation for his inevitable retirement. from the card he gave me i learned that he was the president of their new family venture. they bought used items (bicycles, motorcycles, all kinds of equipment) and exported them in bulk to second-hand shops all over asia.
i couldn't believe the providence of that moment. it felt just like that scene in the movie "the curious case of benjamin button" where cate blanchett got run over by a car as she was leaving the back exit of a theater -- and benjamin button was narrating how a multiplicity of events, timed accurately to the last second, brought everything to that exact moment.
you see, even when i was still in manila we had already been planning to set-up a buy-and-sell business of second-hand japan items, particularly bicycles, among others. so i was just finding the right time to scope out the second-hand item exporting industry in beppu. and now here is this sleepy driver, of this first bus trip of a saturday morning, for my trip downtown for a circle activity that i could've so easily not been a part of had i not joined that circle, and i could've so easily been on the next bus had i gotten up a little late or if the food i cooked had been a little more elaborate than fried fish. but there we were - him and i - exchanging contact information and setting up my visit to his business office so i could see his second hand bicycles. i felt that it was going to be a good day indeed.
miracle#2. i got off at kitashinden, as i had the 7-for-1,000yen weekend tickets, and walked to mochigahama where i joined up with the main group of cyclists. since the new circle members - 4 of us - had not yet purchased our individual bikes, we were given temporary bikes belonging to previous circle members who had graduated already. then we realized that there were 11 of us but only 10 bikes!
in a gallant gesture of her leadership, the cycling circle head, haruna-san, sacrificed her own bike for one of the newcomers to use, explaining that she would just walk to tanoura beach. not to be outdone, sidd-san, an mba student from india, offered not to join the group anymore and just go back to apu. after much insistence and argument from both proponents that their respective proposals were the best, a compromise was reached that sidd-san would use one of the mamachari bikes (a regular bike with a basket in front and a sitting platform behind the bike seat) and that haruna-san would sit behind him. their selflessness so inspired all of us, and that must've set the tone for the great day that it was to become.

Thanks to Raynon for the two pictures above.a future miracle x will be happening this summer when we plan to bike to kansai, spending about 1 week on the road going there, and another week coming back to beppu but by a different route. this trip will be a dream-come-true for me as i've always wanted to go cross-country by bike.
miracle#3. wanting to hit 10 birds with 1 stone, i scheduled a side-trip downtown to visit another filipino whose apartment i heard had a vacant room. ap house is a great place to stay but i wanted to experience the life at beppu city, to feel the pulse of the local people, the local customs. we had agreed to meet at 19:00 at the mcdonalds at mochigama, but i arrived there at 16:00, way too early to hang around and wait for him.
to while away the extra time i decided to walk around the neighborhood to see what was interesting. just two blocks away i found the off shop which sold mainly second-hand items at very good prices, and just in front of that, the beppu port area. i sat in the waiting area just observing the people coming and going and i tried to read the hiragana i could find in the many signages around.
soon enough i grew restless, and i decided that instead of bumming around for the next 2 more hours, i would try and look for my filipino friend's apartment on my own. i had the exact address but next to that i knew nothing about the street names (which i found out later on didn't exist, except for the big streets). and the district names all sounded martian to me: "shigaki-higashi" seemed to be a tongue twister straight out of tom cruise's movie, "the last samurai." notice that those two words have identical letters except one. "2-9-21" reminded me of the number format we filipinos use to bet in our lotto (lottery gambling). "i would surely get lost," i remember saying to myself, but my adventurer spirit quickly countered by saying: "and what could be more exciting than that?"
but no, there was an invisible hand guiding me. when i exited the port building i found that my eyes were stubbornly transfixed on this street sign right outside of the door. it was a street map! i found the shigaki-higashi area but there were no street names and there were no numbers written. buoyed by the presence of my invisible guide, i decided to take my chances and forge ahead. the time was 17:17. i knew the exact time because at this point i was already jotting down notes in my treo of the places, events and happenings so that i could, in the future, narrate the miracle, or disaster, of trying to find an address in a japanese city.
when i reached the area which, according to my hand-drawn replica of the street map, was shigaki-higashi, i looked around frantically for someone to ask. armed only with "sumimasen" and "doko" and a facial expression that read "please kindly help this hopelessly lost foreigner", i criss-crossed the area for about 30 minutes based on the conflicting directions i got from mostly old people walking their dogs. i started to jog instead of just walking in order to cover the area more efficiently.
by around 17:45 i had triangulated the apartment's location to just 3 buildings. i was looking for "showa building" but i couldn't read the building names written in kanji. looking around and finding no one to ask, i began knocking on apartment buildings. after about 6 apartments, someone finally was home (or wasn't scared of me) and opened up. and to my extreme surprise it was an apu student who i knew! what a cosmic coincidence, i thought. she quickly pointed to the third building whose 2-character kanji read "sho wa."
what a surprise my filipino friend had, as he opened his door to my rampaging knock. success!
but the miracle wasn't in my finding his place though that, by itself, was extremely providential. the real miracle was that his extra room was vacant for almost a year, despite his active search for a roommate, as if i was destined to be in that apartment. that was the first time both of us met, yet we immediately found common interests and our discussion was quite lively. we were done in 15 minutes, and i had made up my mind to transfer. beppu downtown here i come! the time was 18:01.
lost in nakatsu. now how did i get lost in nakatsu if i was in mochigama? the speed by which things happened after i left my friend's apartment render me utterly baffled. there must have been a reason why i was actively guided to nakatsu and i will be intently on the lookout for the meaning and significance of that scary detour i had.
having the 7-for-1,000yen apu-kitashinden weekend tickets, i would have had to walk from mochigama to kitashinden in order to be able to catch the apu bus, and use my tickets. now at that point i was already exhausted and the wealth of experiences of that day, thus far, had really drained my psychologically. since that walk would have been about 1 hour (i think, approximately 8-10kms), and i had to be in apu by 7pm to catch the 2nd Nakamura Goro talk (though i had already attended the first talk which was held friday), my friend suggested that i take the local train from beppu eki to kamegawa. that train ride would only cost 200yen, and i could walk from kamegawa to kitashinden, the distance of which would now be more manageable. the bus direct from mochigama to apu cost 490yen and we weighed the option of just buying an oita kotsu triple ticket (333yen per ticket) at beppu eki.
again the adventurer in me kicked in. i decided to take the local train because i had not yet experienced it. also i didn't want to spend another 1,000yen for 3 tickets and i would only use 1 of them -- then being compelled to use the other 2 tickets in the future. i wanted to use up all my kitashinden-apu tickets, even if taking the train (200yen) and the kitshinden-apu bus (143yen) totalled higher than 333yen (the cost of 1 of the 3 triple tickets).
that decided, we walked briskly from mochigahama to beppu eki, passing the back streets. we reached beppu eki at 6:10pm. i was taught how to use the ticket dispenser, and just as i said goodbye to my friend, he quickly warned me to take the local train and not the express train. but by that time my single focus was on not missing my train, and so i didn't pay full attention to his warning about not taking the express train. just seconds after i stepped onto the train platform, a train arrived, and, not thinking, i quickly hopped into it. once i got inside i then suddenly remembered my friend's warning. so i ran back out of the train, and tried to ask the people coming into that same train if that was the local train to kamegawa. people answered back, but i didn't understand what they said.
the seconds were ticking and the train door would close any moment. i had to make a decision: get on it, or wait for the next train. my gut feeling said get on it, so i did. it was the EXPRESS train. great.
but i didn't know just yet that that train i was on was the express train. i got a seat and tried to calm down, still worrying if i was on the right train. i looked at my ticket, which said the train that i was supposed to be on was the 18:16 train (see ticket on the right). it was already 18:24 when i looked at the ticket so that still didn't tell me if i was on the right train.
what really got me worried was when the train was really going at a high speed and we seemed to have passed a number of stations but didn't stop! i looked at the station guide and saw that kamegawa was only two stops away from beppu eki where i got on.
at that point i was really worried. what if that train was non-stop to tokyo? could i ask it to stop? could i jump off? now my thoughts were really getting desperate. what if i get arrested because i didn't have my passport, and i didn't have my alien registration card yet? realizing that there was nothing i could do at that point, i sank down into my seat again and just tried to capture the moment, taking it all in. i wanted to cry, but i think i was too scared for the tears to have flowed out.
i realized that i was hugging my knapsack very tightly because i suddenly felt something hard in my bag. it was the apple that i brought along for our cycling trip! that made me smile. it was the invisible hand again, this time offering me something to eat, as if to say "relax, don't worry and enjoy the ride."
it was the best-tasting apple i'd eaten thus far. with each bite, i remember wanting to chew away my problem and just magically re-appear in the kamegawa station, the correct station. its rich juice had the effect of sweetening the otherwise completely sour situation i was in. that apple was a big one (which i bought at 5 pieces for 350yen), and so finishing it actually helped me to calm down. i was lost, and so what do you do when you are lost: you get found, you get back.
getting back to kamegawa. first, i had to find out where the train was going, or more importantly, what was the next station it was stopping in and could i get back to kamegawa from there. easy, if only i could say that in japanese. i got up from my seat and walked around the train coaches, trying to find someone who looked like he could speak english. by the third coach, and not finding anyone, i finally decided to ask the push-cart lady (the one selling snacks and drinks on the train). her english was surprisingly good, and i later found out that this was because she was a college student and that being a push-cart lady was her part-time job.

she took out this small book, like a miniature dictionary with very, very small letters. it was a train schedule, i realized, and in just a few seconds she scribbled down on a piece of paper (see above) where the train was going (nakatsu), what time it would arrive there(19:00), and what time the next train back to kamegawa would be (19:48). she even put the time that return train would arrive at kamegawa (20:31). i thanked her profusely, but her perfunctory smile told me that this wasn't the first time she helped some naive foreigner lost on a japan train. she quickly dashed off to continue her job.
things were now looking up. i went back to my seat and tried to enjoy the scenery. rural japan - how beautiful indeed it was. i got too comfortable in my soft seat.
the jolt from the stopping train woke me up. I HAD FALLEN ALEEP!
did i miss a stop? was this nakatsu? should i get off? if it wasn't nakatsu and i got off, there might not be a return train to kamegawa. again, the seconds were ticking, and the train doors would close any second. my gut feel was to get off. so i did. and this brings us to the start of my story.
after regaining my composure, i walked around the station trying to find a sign saying that it was indeed the nakatsu station. i thank god that it was nakatsu, and thanks be to god again that i could at least read hiragana. then i noticed that there were more than 2 train tracks! in my beloved third-world home country, we only have 2 tracks maximum. this one had at least 4 tracks. where the heck would the train back to kamegawa pass, at which track?
i went down to the ticket office, and found out that i should be in track 2. as i was going back up, a voice in my head whispered "confirm if the train time given by the push-cart lady is correct." it was the invisible hand again. i was getting used to his voice, to his way of talking to me.
asking the ticket office again, i then found out that the 19:48 return train to kamegawa was correct but that it was an express train which meant that i had to pay an additional 948yen, and that i would be charged on the train. the train i was supposed to get onto if i didn't like to pay additional fare was the 20:20 local train, which was to arrive at kamegawa at 21:41. i debated with myself if my "no" policy applied in these types of "emergency" or "lost" situations, and the miser in me said yes it still applied.
i didn't know what time the last bus from kamegawa to apu was, which would've helped me decide if arriving at 21:41 was acceptable. but then since i couldn't stomach paying 948yen for not having the presence of mind to get on the right train from beppu, i decided to wait for the 20:20 train.
thinking that my problems were over, and knowing that that ride would take more than 1 hour, i sort of relaxed and sat back during the ride back to kamegawa. i couldn't enjoy any scenery as it was already night. and, yes, i was careful not to let myself fall asleep lest i find myself back in the beppu eki.
then i realized that i didn't know how many stations away kamegawa station was starting from nakatsu station - so at least i could know where i would get off. looking for some kind face to approach, i chose this young man wearing a cap, and i asked how many stations we would pass before kamegawa. looking at the train station guide, the man then showed me that kamegawa was 16 stations away! for the first time i realized how far i had overshot my original target station.
so for the next 16 stations that man and i talked. i learned that he was a soldier working in beppu but lived in nakatsu. i told him i was a student at apu. we showed each other our respective id cards. we talked about our families, and shared our dreams of the future. we exchanged email addresses and he even gave me a gift of biscuits! and if you're wondering what language we used when we talked, he used pure japanese and i used pure english. it was miracle #4 how we were able to understand each other. my portable japanese-english/english-japanese dictionary in my treo was also very helpful.
that man must have been the embodiment of the invisible hand because as i talked to him the day seemed to have rounded itself out as one fine day indeed. i was in a local train in japan, in the dead of the night, freezing in my shorts, but fully warmed up in the japanese-english lessons this man and i were having, in the common humanity we were sharing. perfect.
i arrived back at apu at around 22:30, just in time for my kitchen duty. from glorious fun to paralyzing fear, we can always count on some greater force to make sure we'll always come home safely.